Hattusha: the Hittite Capital – Çorum Province

Hattusha: The Hittite Capital – Çorum Province, Turkey

Tucked away in the rolling hills of central Turkey’s Çorum Province lies one of the most extraordinary remnants of the ancient world — Hattusha, the once-thriving capital of the mighty Hittite Empire. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986, Hattusha is a fascinating destination that combines awe-inspiring ruins, captivating history, and a tranquil rural setting, making it a must-visit for travelers eager to walk in the footsteps of one of history’s greatest civilizations.

A Journey Back in Time

The Hittites were among the major powers of the ancient Near East, contemporaries and rivals of the Egyptians, Babylonians, and Assyrians. From around 1600 to 1200 BCE, their empire stretched across much of modern-day Turkey and into Syria. At the heart of it all was Hattusha — a fortified city of stone walls, monumental gates, royal archives, and sacred temples.

Today, visiting Hattusha is like stepping into an ancient epic. The city’s layout and preserved architecture provide rare insight into the political and spiritual life of the Hittites. The site is located near the modern village of Boğazkale, about 200 km east of Ankara, Turkey’s capital. Despite its relatively remote location, Hattusha draws history enthusiasts, archaeologists, and curious travelers from all over the world.

The City of Lions, Kings, and Gods

As you begin your exploration of Hattusha, one of the most striking features is its fortifications, particularly the massive stone walls that once encircled the city for over 6 kilometers. These impressive defenses were not just military structures, but symbolic markers of Hittite power.

One of the most iconic spots is the Lion Gate, named after the two large lion sculptures that guard its entrance. Dating back to the 14th century BCE, the lions are a symbol of protection and strength — key values in Hittite society. Another remarkable entrance is the King’s Gate, which features a relief of a warrior, possibly a deity or royal figure.

Nearby lies the Yerkapı Rampart, a ceremonial gateway built into a high embankment with a mysterious tunnel-like passage leading through it. Walking through this passage, with its finely cut stones and cool shadows, is one of the most atmospheric moments of any visit.

The Great Temple and Sacred Spaces

The Great Temple of Hattusha, located in the lower city, was dedicated to the storm god Tarhunt and the sun goddess Arinna — the chief deities of the Hittite pantheon. Surrounded by storerooms and inscriptions, this temple was the spiritual heart of the capital. Archaeologists uncovered thousands of clay tablets in the temple complex, many inscribed in cuneiform, detailing everything from treaties and religious texts to court records and diplomatic correspondence.

Among the most famous is the Treaty of Kadesh, signed between the Hittite king Hattusili III and the Egyptian Pharaoh Ramses II around 1259 BCE — one of the earliest known international peace treaties. A replica of this historic treaty now hangs in the United Nations headquarters in New York, a testament to Hattusha’s global legacy.

Yazılıkaya: The Open-Air Sanctuary

Just outside the city walls lies Yazılıkaya, an open-air sanctuary that served as a sacred site for Hittite rituals. The rock sanctuary consists of two chambers with walls covered in carvings of gods, kings, and mythological creatures. One chamber, known as Chamber A, features a striking procession of deities — male gods on one side, female gods on the other — culminating in the storm god and sun goddess in the center.

These intricate bas-reliefs offer a glimpse into Hittite cosmology and artistry. Yazılıkaya was likely used during the New Year festivals and may have served as a symbolic underworld or place of rebirth.

Boğazkale Museum and Local Insights

To gain a deeper understanding of what you've seen among the ruins, a stop at the Boğazkale Museum in the nearby village is essential. The museum showcases artifacts recovered from the Hattusha site, including cuneiform tablets, tools, sculptures, and personal items that belonged to the city's inhabitants.

Visiting the museum before or after exploring the ruins helps tie the pieces of Hittite civilization together. Local guides and historians are often available, offering rich storytelling that brings the ancient city to life in a way that guidebooks can't quite match.

Getting There and When to Go

Hattusha is best reached by car or tour from Ankara, about a 3-hour drive through scenic Anatolian landscapes. Public transport options exist but may be limited, so renting a car or joining a guided excursion is often the most convenient choice.

The ideal time to visit is during the spring (April to June) or autumn (September to October) months when the weather is mild and the countryside lush. Summers can be hot and dry, while winters may bring snow, adding a different kind of charm — but potentially limiting access.

Staying and Dining

Accommodations are available in Boğazkale, where family-run guesthouses offer warm hospitality and home-cooked Turkish meals. The experience is rustic but authentic — think of it as stepping into the slow rhythm of rural Anatolia. Enjoy local specialties such as etli ekmek (flatbread with meat), keşkek (a wheat and meat dish), and refreshing ayran (a yogurt-based drink).

A Hidden Gem for Culture Lovers

Hattusha is not only a place to see — it's a place to feel. The quiet grandeur of the ruins, the myth-laden stones, and the legacy of an ancient empire linger in the wind that whispers through the pine-covered hills.

For anyone passionate about archaeology, ancient civilizations, or off-the-beaten-path adventures, Hattusha offers a profound and memorable experience. It’s a journey not just through history, but into the soul of Anatolia — where gods once walked, kings ruled, and a mighty empire rose and fell.